Iris Diseases

Information about iris diseases by Penn Sate Agricultural University can be
viewed here iris-diseases.


DIY: Aphid Spray

Make your own insecticidal soap: Aphids attacking a rode bud and stopping it from opening

Mix 5 tablespoons of all-natural liquid soap with 1 gallon water. 

Using a hand sprayer apply soap mixture directly on the aphids. Wait an hour then spray the roses with a garden hose to remove any soap residue and the dead aphids.

Repeat as needed.

Raspberry Diseases


Oregon State University

Bushy Dwarf Virus:
Since 1998, this disease has increased in Oregon.  Bushy Dwarf (BD)virus causes berries to be  crumbly and leaves to developed chlorosis yellowing; although, not all infect plants  display this leaf-yellowing symptom.  BD can infect both raspberries and marionberries plants, dramatically reducing their fruit production and infecting surrounding plants.

DB Virus

Ontario Ministry of Agriculture

The BD is spread by pollinating insects, because the virus is in the flowers pollen, so they transmitted the virus to other plants. There is no ‘cure”  so infected plants must be destroyed.

Replanted with healthy nursery-certified, disease-resistant plants.

Below is a list of Raspberries resistant to BD:
Boyne, *Chilcotin, Citadel, *Comox, Fairview, Restival, Glen Cova, Glen Moy, *Haida, *Heritage, Hilton, Killarney, Malling Admiral, Malling Jewel,Malling Joy, Malling Promise, Nootka, Puyallup, Scepter, Sentinel,Sumner, *Willamette.

Note: *Willamette & Chilcotin raspberries are immune to raspberry bushy dwarf.
While, Haida, Comox and Heritage are moderately resistant.

Rasp Mosaic.jpg

Cornell University

Raspberry Mosaic:
Raspberry mosaic disease is spread by aphids, symptoms vary but in general they include: stunted canes, delayed leafing out, clusters of shoots coming out from one node, and tip dieback.  Leaf symptoms are yellow spots and cupping. This disease affects black raspberries more than red raspberries, but both can be infected. The plant typically dies within  two years.

Cultivars resistant to Raspberry Mosaic are:
Canby, Carnival, Chilliwack, Comox, Glen Moy, Glen Prosen, Haida, Malling
Autumn Bliss, Malling Joy, Malling Leo, Nootka, Reveille, Skeena.

Raspberries that are resistant to both diseases are: Haida, Malling Joy, Nootka.


Leyland Cypress

“Cypress foliage is very flammable.  It is sticky and aromatic, two signs that is contains volatile waxes, oils and other substances that burn hot.  Flammability may not be an issue in a situation where the trees are isolated from other plants and flammable material (like fences), but consider that in recent years Leyland cypress plantings have contributed to damaging fires in southern Oregon.”

Siskiyou Woodlander
Leyland cypress: requiem for a hybrid?  Posted on March 25, 2014 by

Read more here:


5 W’s for Fertilizing

                                                                    Article by Kelly Brainard, Owner Ashland Greenhouse

“There are always so many questions about fertilizing.  I would like to go over some of the basics, especially since early spring can be a key time for taking care of fertilizing needs. Always ask yourself:
The type of plant you are focusing on (perennials, annuals, vegetables, ect).
What type of fertilizer to use based on season and the plant(s) you’re fertilizing.
When do you apply fertilizer?  Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter?
Where is the best place to apply fertilizers?  Topically or to the root zone?
Why is this necessary?  What are the benefits of fertilizing?

Since we could write a book on everything mentioned above let’s keep it brief and relevant to what we should focus on in early spring.  This is a great time of year to focus on perennials.  Most perennials prefer a well-balanced or all-purpose fertilizer (all three numbers on the packaging are identical, i.e. 3-3-3 or 16-16-16).  Perennials fed in early spring develop strong root systems which in turn produces larger, healthier plants.  Apply granular fertilizers to the soil around the root zone.

For annuals that are tough enough to be outside early and continue blooming throughout the summer, like petunias and verbena, apply well balanced or slightly higher nitrogen fertilizers. This gives them an extra boost, encouraging growth.  You can successfully use either a granular or foliar fertilizer.  Foliar fertilizers tend to react faster than granules since they are taken up by the plant through the leaves but need re-application more often.  For annuals I like to use granular fertilizer applications in the spring and start using weekly or biweekly applications of liquid fertilizer in the summer. Remember as a rule of thumb – ALWAYS apply fertilizers in the morning. It is less stressful for the plants.

Vegetables are a completely different beast when it comes to fertilizing.  There are numerous techniques when it comes to fertilizing your vegetables.  If it’s grown for leafy greens then apply fertilizers heavier in nitrogen. If it’s grown for the fruit apply fertilizers heavier in phosphorous.  Nitrogen promotes healthy, green foliage and too much of it can discourage fruit development while phosphorous promotes bud and flower growth which encourages more fruit.

When in doubt about fertilizing don’t hesitate to ask a fellow gardener. Some of the best advice is the advice that we share with each other!”

Source: http://AshlandGreenhouses_April2014Newsletter